Crochet dragon pattern: 132 rounds across ten pieces

A free crochet dragon pattern for a long-necked dragon about 27 cm from nose to tail tip and 21 cm across the wings, worked in five colours on a 4.0 mm hook over roughly five hours. The cream belly is not a patch sewn on afterwards: twenty-three of the thirty-four body rounds and the first seven tail rounds each carry a run of emerald, then cream, then emerald, and the run lengths are given round by round. All 132 rounds are here across ten pieces, each one with the stitch count it ends on.

Maths verified, not yet made. Every one of the 132 rounds was checked against the round before it by machine — the counts, the increases and the decreases all add up. What nobody can promise you yet is how it sits in the hand.How we check
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Why it is rated High

Thirty of the 132 rounds carry a three-part colour run whose lengths change while the piece is still shaping, and ten pieces must be pinned symmetrically before anything is sewn.

Sell what you make. Anything you crochet from this pattern is yours to sell — any quantity, no fee, no credit required.

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00

What you need before you start

gather it once, in one place
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Yarn — five colours, all weight 4

Emerald1 skein, most of itWorsted acrylic or cotton, weight 4
Cream1 skein, under a third of itWorsted acrylic or cotton, weight 4, the same brand as the emerald so the two sit at one thickness
Jade1 skein, around a third of itWorsted acrylic or cotton, weight 4, a lighter green than the body
GoldscrapsWorsted acrylic or cotton, weight 4
CharcoalscrapsWorsted acrylic or cotton, weight 4

Tools

6 you probably own, 3 to buy

You likely have

Tapestry needle
Scissors
Stitch markers
Pins
Measuring tape
Row counter

You need to buy

Polyester stuffing (~45 g)
8 mm black safety eyes x2, or charcoal yarn to embroider the eyes for a child under three
A second stitch marker in a contrast colour, to hold the centre of the belly line

Optional

A yarn bobbin or small clip for the cream, so it does not tangle with the emerald
Two pipe cleaners cut to the length of the back legs, if you want the dragon to stand rather than sit
A chopstick or similar for pushing stuffing down the neck

Gauge and finished size

the last check before you cast on
Tension
Not critical, with one exception. Work tight enough that stuffing cannot show between stitches, and keep the twenty-three belly rounds at the same tension as the plain ones — carrying two yarns pulls the fabric in, and a tight belly narrows the middle of the animal.
Finished size
~27 cm nose to tail tip laid straight, and about 21 cm wingtip to wingtip
The colourwork behaves the same at any weight, but a smooth yarn keeps the carried strand even and a fluffy one blurs the belly line. Going up a hook size lengthens the dragon and widens the wings in proportion.

How to make the dragon, piece by piece

132 rounds across ten pieces, from six lists: four are worked twice.

Switching rewrites every round:US6 sc in mr→UK6 dc in mrWork a US sc as a UK single crochet and the fabric comes out looser and taller.
1
01

The body and head

Thirty-four rounds, nose to hips, with the belly changing colour…34 RNDS
starts in emerald· magic ring· Piece 1 of 10

Thirty-four rounds, nose to hips, with the belly changing colour inside twenty-three of them. This is the piece the whole dragon hangs off.On every belly round the app tells you how many emerald, how many cream, how many emerald. Keep the cream block over the same line of stitches and the underside comes out straight.

Rounds 1 to 6 of The body and head: 6, 12, 12, 12, 18, 24 stitchesFirst six rounds[6] [12] [12] [12] [18] [24]

Snout and head

RND 1–9
16 sc in mr[6]
2inc x6[12]
312 sc[12]
412 sc[12]
5(sc, inc) x6[18]
6(2 sc, inc) x6[24]
724 sc[24]
824 sc[24]
924 sc[24]

Neck — the belly colour starts

RND 10–15
10(2 sc, dec) x6[18]
11(sc, dec) x6[12]
1212 sc, belly run[12]
1312 sc, belly run[12]
1412 sc, belly run[12]
1512 sc, belly run[12]

Body opening out to thirty

RND 16–30
16(sc, inc) x6, belly run[18]
17(2 sc, inc) x6, belly run[24]
18(3 sc, inc) x6, belly run[30]
1930 sc, belly run[30]
2030 sc, belly run[30]
2130 sc, belly run[30]
2230 sc, belly run[30]
2330 sc, belly run[30]
2430 sc, belly run[30]
2530 sc, belly run[30]
2630 sc, belly run[30]
2730 sc, belly run[30]
2830 sc, belly run[30]
2930 sc, belly run[30]
3030 sc, belly run[30]

Hips, closing to eighteen

RND 31–34
31(3 sc, dec) x6, belly run[24]
3224 sc, belly run[24]
33(sc, dec) x6, belly run[18]
3418 sc, belly run[18]
US termsmrmagic ringscsingle crochetincincreasedecdecreasest(s)stitch, or stitches
When this piece is doneThe body and head are done.Stuff the head hard before the neck narrows, keep the neck firm so it holds the head up, then fill the body and stop at the hips. Leave the last eighteen stitches open for the tail.
2
02

The tail

Eighteen stitches picked up around the open hips, tapering over…20 RNDS
starts in emerald· picked up· Piece 2 of 10

Eighteen stitches picked up around the open hips, tapering over twenty rounds to a three-stitch point. The cream belly runs on for the first seven of them.The taper is gentle on purpose. Skipping a plain round to get there faster gives you a cone rather than a tail.

Rounds 1 to 6 of The tail: 18, 18, 15, 15, 15, 12 stitchesFirst six rounds[18] [18] [15] [15] [15] [12]

The cream belly runs on

RND 1–7
118 sc around the open hip edge[18]
218 sc, belly run[18]
3(4 sc, dec) x3[15]
415 sc, belly run[15]
515 sc, belly run[15]
6(3 sc, dec) x3[12]
712 sc, belly run[12]

Emerald, twelve down to six

RND 8–16
812 sc[12]
912 sc[12]
10(2 sc, dec) x3[9]
119 sc[9]
129 sc[9]
13(sc, dec) x3[6]
146 sc[6]
156 sc[6]
166 sc[6]

The last taper to three

RND 17–20
17(sc, dec) x2[4]
184 sc[4]
194 sc[4]
20dec, 2 sc[3]
US termsmrmagic ringscsingle crochetincincreasedecdecreasest(s)stitch, or stitches
When this piece is doneThe tail is done.Stuff the first eight rounds lightly and leave the rest empty, then close the tip with its own tail of yarn. An empty end lets you curl it.
3
03

The wings

Two the same. Out to thirty stitches, straight for two rounds, then…15 RNDS
starts in jade· magic ring· Piece 3 of 10

Two the same. Out to thirty stitches, straight for two rounds, then back down to six — a teardrop worked as a tube and pressed flat.Sew them the same number of stitches out from the spine on each side, over body rounds 20 to 24. Pin both before the needle goes into either.

Rounds 1 to 6 of The wings: 6, 12, 18, 24, 24, 30 stitchesFirst six rounds[6] [12] [18] [24] [24] [30]

Out to thirty

RND 1–6
16 sc in mr[6]
2inc x6[12]
3(sc, inc) x6[18]
4(2 sc, inc) x6[24]
524 sc[24]
6(3 sc, inc) x6[30]

Two straight rounds

RND 7–8
730 sc[30]
830 sc[30]

Back down to six

RND 9–15
9(3 sc, dec) x6[24]
1024 sc[24]
11(2 sc, dec) x6[18]
1218 sc[18]
13(sc, dec) x6[12]
1412 sc[12]
15dec x6[6]
US termsmrmagic ringscsingle crochetincincreasedecdecreasest(s)stitch, or stitches
When this piece is doneBoth wings are done.Press each one flat, close the last six stitches, and leave a long tail on each for sewing. No stuffing in either — they read better thin.
4
04

Right wing

— the same 15 rounds again, worked from piece 0315 RNDS
starts in jade· magic ring· Piece 4 of 10· mirrors the wings

The same 15 rounds as the wings, worked a second time.

Rounds 1 to 6 of Right wing: 6, 12, 18, 24, 24, 30 stitchesFirst six rounds[6] [12] [18] [24] [24] [30]
16 sc in mr[6]
2inc x6[12]
3(sc, inc) x6[18]
4(2 sc, inc) x6[24]
524 sc[24]
6(3 sc, inc) x6[30]
730 sc[30]
830 sc[30]
9(3 sc, dec) x6[24]
1024 sc[24]
11(2 sc, dec) x6[18]
1218 sc[18]
13(sc, dec) x6[12]
1412 sc[12]
15dec x6[6]
US termsmrmagic ringscsingle crochetincincreasedecdecreasest(s)stitch, or stitches
5
05

The front legs

Two small charcoal-footed legs, eight rounds each. The colour changes…8 RNDS
starts in charcoal· magic ring· Piece 5 of 10

Two small charcoal-footed legs, eight rounds each. The colour changes at round 4, where the foot becomes the leg.Count from the nose on both sides rather than matching by eye.

Rounds 1 to 6 of The front legs: 6, 12, 12, 9, 9, 9 stitchesFirst six rounds[6] [12] [12] [9] [9] [9]
16 sc in mr[6]
2inc x6[12]
312 sc[12]
4(2 sc, dec) x3, change to emerald[9]
59 sc[9]
69 sc[9]
79 sc[9]
89 sc[9]
US termsmrmagic ringscsingle crochetincincreasedecdecreasest(s)stitch, or stitches
When this piece is doneBoth front legs are done.Stuff each one lightly and sew the open end to the sides of the body at about round 20, angled forward.
6
06

Right front leg

— the same 8 rounds again, worked from piece 058 RNDS
starts in charcoal· magic ring· Piece 6 of 10· mirrors the front legs

The same 8 rounds as the front legs, worked a second time.

Rounds 1 to 6 of Right front leg: 6, 12, 12, 9, 9, 9 stitchesFirst six rounds[6] [12] [12] [9] [9] [9]
16 sc in mr[6]
2inc x6[12]
312 sc[12]
4(2 sc, dec) x3, change to emerald[9]
59 sc[9]
69 sc[9]
79 sc[9]
89 sc[9]
US termsmrmagic ringscsingle crochetincincreasedecdecreasest(s)stitch, or stitches
7
07

The back legs

Two the same as the front pair but longer, with a thigh that opens…10 RNDS
starts in charcoal· magic ring· Piece 7 of 10

Two the same as the front pair but longer, with a thigh that opens back out to twelve stitches before it closes again.If you want the dragon to stand, slide a folded pipe cleaner down each back leg before you stuff it.

Rounds 1 to 6 of The back legs: 6, 12, 12, 12, 9, 12 stitchesFirst six rounds[6] [12] [12] [12] [9] [12]
16 sc in mr[6]
2inc x6[12]
312 sc[12]
412 sc[12]
5(2 sc, dec) x3, change to emerald[9]
6(2 sc, inc) x3[12]
712 sc[12]
812 sc[12]
9(2 sc, dec) x3[9]
109 sc[9]
US termsmrmagic ringscsingle crochetincincreasedecdecreasest(s)stitch, or stitches
When this piece is doneBoth back legs are done.Stuff to the thigh and leave the top open, then sew each one on at about round 30 with the thigh sitting against the hip.
8
08

Right back leg

— the same 10 rounds again, worked from piece 0710 RNDS
starts in charcoal· magic ring· Piece 8 of 10· mirrors the back legs

The same 10 rounds as the back legs, worked a second time.

Rounds 1 to 6 of Right back leg: 6, 12, 12, 12, 9, 12 stitchesFirst six rounds[6] [12] [12] [12] [9] [12]
16 sc in mr[6]
2inc x6[12]
312 sc[12]
412 sc[12]
5(2 sc, dec) x3, change to emerald[9]
6(2 sc, inc) x3[12]
712 sc[12]
812 sc[12]
9(2 sc, dec) x3[9]
109 sc[9]
US termsmrmagic ringscsingle crochetincincreasedecdecreasest(s)stitch, or stitches
9
09

The horns

Two little gold cones worked point first, six rounds each. They are…6 RNDS
starts in gold· magic ring· Piece 9 of 10

Two little gold cones worked point first, six rounds each. They are the last crocheting before assembly.Leave four or five stitches between them. Horns set too close read as ears.

Rounds 1 to 6 of The horns: 6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10 stitchesFirst six rounds[6] [6] [8] [8] [10] [10]
16 sc in mr[6]
26 sc[6]
3(2 sc, inc) x2[8]
48 sc[8]
5(3 sc, inc) x2[10]
610 sc[10]
US termsmrmagic ringscsingle crochetincincreasedecdecreasest(s)stitch, or stitches
When this piece is doneBoth horns are done, and so is the dragon.Leave them unstuffed, flatten the open base a little, and sew one on each side of the top of the head at about round 8, leaning back.
10
10

Right horn

— the same 6 rounds again, worked from piece 096 RNDS
starts in gold· magic ring· Piece 10 of 10· mirrors the horns

The same 6 rounds as the horns, worked a second time.

Rounds 1 to 6 of Right horn: 6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10 stitchesFirst six rounds[6] [6] [8] [8] [10] [10]
16 sc in mr[6]
26 sc[6]
3(2 sc, inc) x2[8]
48 sc[8]
5(3 sc, inc) x2[10]
610 sc[10]
US termsmrmagic ringscsingle crochetincincreasedecdecreasest(s)stitch, or stitches
Ten pieces from six lists. Four lists — the wings, the front legs, the back legs and the horns — are written once and worked twice, identical round for round; the grey bars are piece length, all drawn to the same scale.132 ROUNDS IN ALL

Thirteen notes on the dragon

Read them
01An original Crochet Genie design.
02The whole dragon is smooth single crochet worked in a continuous spiral. There are no scales, spines, ridges or open gaps anywhere in the stitch work — what makes it read as a dragon is the long neck, the wings and the horns, not the surface. Anything scaly you want on top is embroidery of your own.
03Nothing is joined and nothing is turned, so mark the first stitch of every round and carry the marker up with you.
04The cream belly is not a patch sewn on afterwards. It is worked into the body: rounds 12 to 34 of the body, and rounds 1 to 7 of the tail, each carry a run of emerald, then cream, then emerald, and the app gives you the exact run lengths round by round. Change colour where the run changes, and let the yarn you are not using ride along the inside of the work.
05Keep the cream centred over the same line of stitches all the way along. Put a second marker in the middle cream stitch of body round 12 and move it up as you go — a belly that wanders by five stitches reads as a mistake, while one that drifts by a stitch reads as an animal.
06The cream opens from four stitches at the throat to twelve across the middle of the body, then narrows back to four at the hips and two along the tail. That taper is what gives the underside its pointed ends.
07The body and head are one piece, nose first: a short snout, a wide head, a narrow neck of four rounds, then the body opening out to thirty. Stuff the head firmly before the neck closes over it, because the neck is too narrow to reach back through.
08The tail starts on the eighteen stitches left open at the hips, which is why it has no magic ring. Stuff it lightly for the first eight rounds and leave the last few empty so the tip can curl.
09The wings are worked as flattened tubes and left unstuffed. Press each one flat, close the last six stitches, and sew the flat side to the back over body rounds 20 to 24, one on each side of the spine and the same number of stitches out from it on both sides.
10The horns are worked point first, so each one comes off the hook as a small cone with an open base. Sew them to the top of the head at about round 8, angled back, leaving four or five stitches between them.
11The feet are the first three or four rounds of each leg in charcoal, worked before the change to emerald. Legs are stuffed lightly — overstuffed legs go round and the dragon will not sit.
12Pin all four legs and both wings before sewing any of them, and count stitches rather than trusting your eye. Front legs sit at about body round 20, back legs at about round 30. Symmetry is most of what makes this read as a dragon.
13At 4 mm with worsted this comes out around 27 cm nose to tail tip. The same stitch counts in bulky yarn with a 6 mm hook give roughly a 40 cm dragon, if you would rather have a big one.

Four questions this pattern answers

Not questions anybody asked. Each one is written from this pattern's own record, and every answer is read off the fields it names.

How is the colour worked into the dragon?

Inside the round, not at the start of it: 30 of the 132 rounds carry a colour run, across two of its ten pieces. Each of those rounds gives the run in stitches: round 1 of the tail is seven emerald, then four cream, then seven emerald.

How much yarn will the dragon take?

Five colours, all weight 4 (worsted), and the pattern asks for emerald: 1 skein, most of it; cream: 1 skein, under a third of it; jade: 1 skein, around a third of it; gold: scraps; charcoal: scraps.

What hook will the dragon need, and what is the finished size?

A 4.0 mm hook, US G/6. Finished, it comes out ~27 cm nose to tail tip laid straight, and about 21 cm wingtip to wingtip; the leading tilde is there because that came off the stitch counts rather than a tape measure.

How long will the dragon take to crochet?

About five hours. That is 132 rounds across ten pieces, coming to 1,628 single crochet, 122 increases and 105 decreases, and the hours are an estimate rather than a timing of anybody making it.

A round that will not add up?
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